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I played yesterday and noticed that the grip on my driver had "moved." The Golf Pride name and logo, usually in line with the face of the club, had moved to the left. I checked, but the grip was tight.

Today, I noticed that there is a 1/8" separation between the head and the ferrule. The grip didn't move, somehow the shaft must have loosened and twisted. It wasn't due to heat since its so early in the year. The head seems solid, I tried to see if it was loose, and it wasn't. I played all day yesterday with it this way, and there were no adverse effects. In fact, I was more consistent and long from the tee that I normally am.

I had the head (TM580XD) re-shafted about 18 months ago, and am planning to contact the clubmaker who did it.

Question: Does this sound like "trouble waiting to happen?" If I use the club is there a chance the head will fly off during a round?

thanks.

YES, there is a chance that the clubhead will fly off. Not only an IF but a WHEN because the epoxy has broken loose and only friction is holding the head on. I would not hit this club again until the shaft has been re-glued. This is a common occurence from all makes and models. Although Callaway and coincidentally enough, Taylor Made have been the ones I see most.

jcgolfpro - I thought so, and I guess I was lucky it did not fly off on Saturday morning. The clubmaker told me to bring it in tonight and he would fix it while I waited. He is going to pull the shaft, clean everything out and re-epoxy. He suggested I give it 24 hrs. to cure properly. No charge of course.

thanks for the response.

When I was making clubs and heavily into repair, I would have done the same thing. Sometimes the epoxy doesn't mix quite right but you never know.

FYI - I had it fixed last night. The clubmaker said that Taylor Made drivers typically provide less shaft to "seat" into the clubhead. He said other manufacturers clubheads allow a good 1/4" to 1/2" more shaft to apply the epoxy to. He's been doing this for years so I believe him.

I have the same problem with my TM r580xd right now. Recently reshafted with a Graffaloy prolite 35, one month ago. At the doctor's now....

Hi everyone: I am new here. Name's Robert.

Generr, Glad you repaired it because if you had not, failure could occur. It is true hosel depth of a TM is shorter but also greater in diameter.

Best

i found out from my clubmaker (hoboken golf, nj, thanks Ian) that the hosel is actually a bit wider than .350. He told me that he had to use a bit more epoxy to hold the head properly. Odd, i thought. Anyone else heard of this issue?

The hosel was meant to be .350 I guess they are not always exact.
The problem when the shaft is does not fit snug in the hosel is that it may not align properly. To avoid this you can wrap a small piece of masking tape around the tip.

Good luck

RMB, Shafting beads work great for this. A lot of shaft manufacturers recommend the use of these beads. (UST for one)

Shafting beads? Hmmmm, interesting. I have now seperated shaft from hosel four times in the last two months. I did find out that the stock shaft from a r580xd (the fuji's that come stock, that is...) measure in at .355 even though the "vintage specs" page on tm's website says the hosel is .350. this has turned into a major issue with my driver... I can't keep it in one piece! Argh... now TM's customer service is taking it's fifth day to address it.... Ping G2, I'm-a-comin' soon for ya!

This is a great forum!

My TM 3-iron has the exact same problem. Can I take it anywhere to get fixed or will I end up shipping it to TM?

I just spoke to TM customer service today about the issue... they also recommended shafting beads... and said that the .355 measurement was just "slight variance" in the shafts... even though that one fits snugly, they say that the hosel is .350, little variance on that. They said I should rough up the inside of the hosel, but my clubmaker did that... So.... they said, that's about all they could do... good luck... so, I guess I'm just going to have to be out on this one... kind of a bummer. When the thing's in one piece, it feels great, and I hit the longest drives of my life...

Do you know what kind of epoxy is being used? Many times clubmakers use 5-minute which usually works just fine but it is not as durable as one that cures slower.

Thanks jc.... actually the first two times, my clubmaker used the quick set stuff... when I came back the third time he asked me to leave it over night, and he used this "20/20" stuff (that's all I can remember from the bottle...) he said it took a good 20 hours to cure, and should sit for even a bit more... I let it sit for another 12 hours or so, then to the range for 50 balls, then to the course... on the 10th tee I noticed that the epoxy had failed, and the club face was closing (odd, I thought) ... the next one we went back to the quick set, and just made sure to rough up the inside of the hosel, then really clean out everything... he used a lot more epoxy than he had in the past few attempts. It lasted through two rounds... and now I see the same space between the ferrule, and the head has begun to twist again....

It seems the hosel is a wee bit bigger than .350, there's a bit too much wiggle room... does this seem like a case for shafting beads?