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Can chrome be polished or just cleaned?

I just purchased a set of 1976 Wilson Staff Forged irons which are in very good shape with nominal wear and tear for 30 year old clubs. I plan on playing them, so rechroming isn't what I have in mind. What I am trying to find out is if anyone has had any success removing minor scratches from chrome.

I ran across an article written by a gentleman who sounded very experienced and knowledgeable who was restoring a motorcycle. He advised that chrome is very hard and thin and while it can be cleaned, there is no way (other than rechroming) to remove scratches or pit marks. After trying everything from the basic stuff to the most expensive German polish, he discovered that you could remove rust, and get it shiny, but even the small scratches were staying put. He also indicated that anything abrasive will only make matters worse.

Anyone know any secrets for getting the most out of good but not perfect chrome?

The article that you read pretty much sums it up. Once the chrome is gone, i.e., scratches and pitmarks, only re-chroming will fix. You can, however, clean them up. I would use a mild dishwashing detergent and cold or luke warm water and a SOFT bristle toothbrush to clean the grooves and dirt from the clubs. Then just use a soft cotton cloth and some chrome polish to give them as much shine as you can. Often chrome can have some stains from any pitting that can be remooved. After buffing the polish, take another soft toothbrush and run through the numbers, logos, names, etc., to remoove any polish that might still remain in these recessed areas. Pay particular attention to the part of the article where he warned against using anything abrasive. Do a close inspection of the grooves on these clubs. I know you said they have nominal wear and tear but double check the grooves. Best of luck, sounds like a great find.
Jerry

Man, if we only had someone on the site who was a Vintage Wilson Forged iron player to help you out.

Okay, but the question was already answered. Once oxidation has set into chrome, there is very little you can do, but restore it. If it were a painted surface rubbing compound and elbow grease would work, with chrome rubbing compound would only further increase the scratching and dullness. Chrome is a different story, the club needs to be blasted to white metal, dipped in molten cooper, then re-chromed. Only way to do it.

i say that with the purchase of those clubs (which sound really sweet) i would just pay the money to rechrome them.

For this set of clubs, even though he plans to play with them, I think I would have to agree with you. I don't know what it will cost but how often are you going to find these clubs today? Have a good one.
Jerry

If I rechrome them, I won't want to play them. The chrome is in good shape, no chips, cracks or peeling, if it weren't for dry rot on the grips you would never think they were old, I just want to get them as new looking as possible.

I wanted to try blades but didn't want to but new ones if I found out I wasn't ready for them. I only became interested the 76 Staff irons earlier in the week after seeing a photo of Forgedrbest's on this site (below). There are a few sets on ebay now, so I don't think they are rare. Wilson made a ton of them.

Re Chrome in the initial post.

There are chrome polishes out there, but really it depends upon how thick the chrome has been applied. But as mentioned earlier, once chrome has badly pitted, to the extent of revealing the underlying metal, then there is little that can be done, other than to re-chrome. Though I'm not really sure I'd be that bothered, unless its harming the playability of the club. I'd choose to clean & polish to a degree to smarten them up & just live with the two tone effect as giving the club character. in other words if it anint broke don't fix it.

Really depends what you want & if you want or think you need to spend money on the clubs.

yes, i would have to agree with him in saying that u should rechrome and also since the grips are dry rotted, regrip them with all-weather grips.

Check http://theironfactory.com/. They show refinished wilson's on their homepage. They chrome wedges for Titleist. They had some production problems in the past but, they are fine now.

Thanks everybody, I think the consensus is that chrome can only be cleaned and cared for, if it gets worn, the only route is rechroming.

FYI - the chrome is in very good shape. It isn't discolored, it isn't all dinged up, it isn't peeling, it isn't rusted, it has very minor flaws. If I rechromed, these irons would look like they do now after about 50 rounds.

If I really like these clubs, I may rechrome them when they begin to show significant wear. If I don't like them, they will be on Ebay next week.

Regarding the theironfactory.com, I agree that this is the best place to send clubs for rechroming, without a doubt.

I think from your description, its probably best to simply keep good care of the clubs after each excursion out onto the course, simply to keep them in the condition they are in now, to prevent any further degradation, till natural wear of the surface takes place through to the bass metal, & by then they will have developed a patina you would be proud of rather than ashamed of :)

Sounds like they are in better shape than I thought. Go out and play them and enjoy them. I see good players with these kinds of clubs in their bags every day and they look much worse than what you are describing. As for them being on ebay next week I think you should allow more time to get used to them. They may not feel right at all for awhile. Anyway, even if there are sets to be had now, they surely aren't something you can walk into Edwin Watts and buy. I would keep them even if you decide not to play them. Best to you.
Jerry

Go to your local motorcycle shop and ask for Simichrome polish. It works wonders on aluminum also.

I haven't played a set of chromed irons since I was a kid, but I've ridden motorcycles and tried to keep them clean. Try Nevr-Dull by Eagle One. Just be sure to wipe the residue clean. Work's great on steel shafts. I'd think it'd work well on a set of chromed blades as well.