To replace a bore through shaft, remove the old shaft, sand the old epoxy out, break the finish on the new shaft, put a piece of duct tape or masking tape over the hole on the bottom of the head, put some epoxy in the hole, coat the shaft and put it together. Stand the club upright and let it sit until the expoxy cures. When the expoxy has cured, remove the tape, cut to length and grip.
I like to use the plug. I flo the shaft, mitre at 45*, line the inside of the bore and coat the shaft with epoxy. Insert shaft by slow turning until the mitred portion is just about even with the sole. I usually then let it cure before epoxying the plug into the bottom of the shaft. Let cure. then I cut off the plug, sand and buff...voila! OEM looking quality
I like to install the shaff plug at the same time as I install the shaft. Then I cut the end of the shaft off at the correct angle and contour the end to match the bottom of the club head. Works for me just fine this way, and I don't have to wait for the epoxy to cure twice, just once.
I like to install the shaff plug at the same time as I install the shaft. Then I cut the end of the shaft off at the correct angle and contour the end to match the bottom of the club head. Works for me just fine this way, and I don't have to wait for the epoxy to cure twice, just once.
Yeah, that extra five minutes is a real killer (quick epoxy works just fine for the plug!) I find it better, for me anyway, one step at a time and collect my thoughts, clean up a little, etc. etc. etc. Other than that, I really don't think it matters a 'hole' lot. Peace
A plug would be the best to use. Using epoxy to fill that and not a plug is a little risky I would think. I have done only 5 of them myself and I would think if the epoxy breaks down due to a bad mixture or left in a trunk of a car on a 100 degree plus day then the shaft is exposed and can possibly split on the graphite fibers. I had this happen on an iron twice and decided "no short cuts"
If I used 5 minute epoxy, I'd agree with you, but I only use the 24 hour shafting epoxy, so that would mean an extra day before I could finish the club.
Golfdawg: If you are having problems with the epoxy breaking down in 100 degree heat, you might want to change what you are useing. The shafting epoxy I use is from Golfsmith, and it breaks down at 250 degrees. Way above the 100 degrees you mentioned.
Oneputt that is outside temps of 100 degrees, in your trunk or the back seat of your car through glass acts like a magnifying glass and intensifies that. I did a test at the studio I work at with our F/X team and you can add almost 50 more degrees in enclosed areas like that. I spoke with the Golfsmith team and they said it could happen with a hot day,then you hit it and put stress on the tip then let it sit and cook in the trunk again and do everything again. Trunks are killers for clubs. Try taking a very hot glass and fill it with clod water see what happens.(wear goggles) This is the effect with a set of clubs sitting in a trunk cooling during the night then baking during the day in a trunk. I too use Golfsmiths epoxys and like them. One epoxy I have had a problem with is ROYAL ONYX. I don't know why always the first use is good, then after sitting for about a month or 2 I use it again and heads do not stick very well. I have been clubmaking for over 10 years and I rough the tips like I should and have not experienced this before. SO now I have gone back to Golfsmiths reg Shafting epoxy and had no problems.
There are shaft plugs made for woods and irons. To Look professional like the factory it is very easy. Epoxy the shaft plug before you cut the shaft and let it cure. Then sand the paint off the tip and slide into the head and align or spine the shaft in the position you want it in. Slide the tip just passed the bore thru at the bottom of the sole and mark with a fine point Sharpie. Pull back out of the club and use a Dremel tool with a round sanding wheel and yoy can make it perfect. Slide back in and tweak till it looks just like the factory. Epoxy and then brag to your friends how easy it was.
Oneputt that is outside temps of 100 degrees, in your trunk or the back seat of your car through glass acts like a magnifying glass and intensifies that.
In the golf business you will see this happen alot to clubs when people leave then in the trunk all the time they will eventually break down the epoxy and a good on the screws hit will cause it to slip down the shaft and sometimes off.
Last edited by Custom-Golf-Sales : January 23rd, 2006 at 07:44 PM.
I like to use the plug. I flo the shaft, mitre at 45*, line the inside of the bore and coat the shaft with epoxy. Insert shaft by slow turning until the mitred portion is just about even with the sole. I usually then let it cure before epoxying the plug into the bottom of the shaft. Let cure. then I cut off the plug, sand and buff...voila! OEM looking quality
Oneputt that is outside temps of 100 degrees, in your trunk or the back seat of your car through glass acts like a magnifying glass and intensifies that. QUOTE]
In the golf business you will see this happen alot to clubs when people leave then in the trunk all the time they will eventually break down the epoxy and a good on the screws hit will cause it to slip down the shaft and sometimes off.
Thank you Christian For your backing on that. A lot of people just cannot believe that due to the bottle of epoxy stating it takes 200 plus degrees to break down epoxy for shaft removal.
January 10th, 2006, 04:16 PM
Peace
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