golfrewind.com

I've got a 3 wood head that now has it's 4th shaft. (been used as a demo by several different golfers with different requirements) My question is how many times do you think you can pull a shaft and/or replace the head? Seems likely that the heat applied will eventually affect both the shaft and the head. I haven't seen any problems yet but.....?

I know that with composite heads you had better watch/know what you're doing and it's not advisable to get too re-shaft happy. Regarding steel and titanium heads, if you have quality product you're dealing with (i.e. OEM or Top Component) and not a low-level component (bad welds/raw materials) and you or your clubmaker know what you're doing -- not a problem.

I don't know of any benchmark number out there -- x re-shafts -- and done...

Golf-a-holic is right. There is no certian # because it depends on the puller and installer of the club and shaft. If you use a torch to pull your shafts it will happen alot sooner then using a heat gun.... etc.

If you are having it done by a competant clubman, you shouldn't have any problems with either.

Funny slick, but from my 10years of experience you have a good idea when is "when". But not all heads cure at the exact same rate when the are molded. So even an experienced clubmaker may run into a problem when applying heat. Yes 98% of the time no-problem, but when that 2% does happen.....ah d*#@ it ! It's a great question for someone who likes to experiment.

So far the biggest potential problem I see is weakening the tip from repeated head changes. Scraping or sanding the old epoxy off is probably taking a little fiber with it. I haven't seen any problems with the heads, but I use a heat gun, not a torch so I'm sure that helps.

Yes Thomas, the shaft on the other hand can only take so much. Christian from Custom Golf Sales would be a good person to ask, he is with golf rewind.

There is only so much that a shaft can take. Generally I try to use a box cutter to scrape the glue off while it is still warm, which does not tend to skin the shaft. I try not to sand them because it is hard to just take the glue and not skin the shaft even more which would effect its durability.


Brian Cerny
Custom Golf Sales
Club Builder

Right on Brian. Two questions though, When you have to roughen up the tip again for the glue to have a surface to stick to, do you rely on the scraping you just did or do you hit it with a belt sander. 2nd question is have you had problems with Royal Onxy shafting epoxy. Twice now I have opened a new bottle and glued a club together no problem, then say 1-2 months later I will open that same bottle and glue another club together but the 2nd clubhead always works it way off the shaft. No problem with the 1st time use.

Dawg

I've never had a problem with a head. I've used shafts 4, 5, 6 times without any problems.

Make sure you use maximum pressure with minimal heat and you'll be amazed how many pulls you can use.

In response to the first question, I generally use a newer blade for scraping so it takes off all the glue and gives the roughen area from original use. If I don't feel that it is enough then I will hit it very lightly with the sander. As of yet, I have had no complaints on any reshaftings that I have done. As for the second question, I am not familiar with the Royal Onxy epoxy. I use the Scoth Weld DP460, which I have had no issues with at all.


Brian Cerny
Custom Golf Sales
Club Builder

Thank you Brian ,I had gotton the Royal Onyx from both Golfsmith and B and M golf components in Garfield Ca. It is a one part epoxy that cures in about 20 minutes and dries black.

I prefer the two part epoxy, which the DP460 is. It has about a 5 to 6 hour dry time, but they also have some faster drying ones as well.