Thanks for trying to get it through my thick head Forged. Hopefully someone can dumb it down better for me.
Any tips on cutting a graphite shaft? I was just thinking about using a hacksaw and a miter box, taping the ends to prevent splintering, then gently filing the cut end. Does that sound right?
Just noticed yours and ForgrdR's posts. He is giving you good advice. Take your time and deburr the sharp edges, including the shaft ID with light sandpaper. Welcome to GR and enjoy golf. Perfect clubs are like perfect golfers. Not made yet!
Well, I haven't received a response to the PMs I sent, so hopefully someone else has an answer:
When 1" is trimmed off the butt end of the driver, why is the often-cited advice to add weight to the clubhead? It makes more sense to me to put the weight back to where you removed it - at the butt end - to maintain swingweight. Thanks!
Well, I haven't received a response to the PMs I sent, so hopefully someone else has an answer:
When 1" is trimmed off the butt end of the driver, why is the often-cited advice to add weight to the clubhead? It makes more sense to me to put the weight back to where you removed it - at the butt end - to maintain swingweight. Thanks!
Because if you shorten a club, you'll notice that the head feels lighter. That's because it's further away from your hands. Try this. Hold any club at the very top (butt) end of the grip. Hold it out in front of you and sway it a little. Feel the weight of the head hanging on the end of the shaft. Now take the same club and hold it half way down the shaft. Hold it out again. See how much lighter the head feels? That's why you'd have to add some weight to the head, to get that feeling back.
Swingweighting a club is not finding a balance point but rather a counter balance point. When you swingweight a club to lets say D-2 then the weight portion of the club is considered ideal for the flex of the shaft but when you shorten the shaft and offset the swingweight to a higher number (lets say C-6) you will find that the shaft will play stiffer then stated flex.
Example is to take a tooth pic that around 2 feet long. You will notice that the tooth pic will be very flexable but when you cut it down to 2 inches the same tooth pic will offer alot stiffer profile.
Now if we cut an inch off the shaft we have to counter balance the weight in the head to allow the shaft to soften up to play to the same flex profile that you had in the beginning.
Thanks for trying to get it through my thick head Forged. Hopefully someone can dumb it down better for me.
Any tips on cutting a graphite shaft? I was just thinking about using a hacksaw and a miter box, taping the ends to prevent splintering, then gently filing the cut end. Does that sound right?
Swingweight is a measure of Balance. If your club head weighs 200Gr. and your shaft is, lets say 50 inches, your moment is 10,000 gr/inches. If you cut 10 inches off of your shaft you now have a moment of 8000 Gr./inches. In order to get the same Moment(Balance Point) back, you will have to add 50 grams to the head.
Golf uses singweight C2, D3, etc. in place of Gram/Inches, but it is the same thing.
Because if you shorten a club, you'll notice that the head feels lighter. That's because it's further away from your hands. Try this. Hold any club at the very top (butt) end of the grip. Hold it out in front of you and sway it a little. Feel the weight of the head hanging on the end of the shaft. Now take the same club and hold it half way down the shaft. Hold it out again. See how much lighter the head feels? That's why you'd have to add some weight to the head, to get that feeling back.