Milehigh; it depends some on whether the shaft has a "soft" or "stiff" tip. If the shaft has a real stiff tip, and you cut off more of that "stiff" section, what's left may end up playing softer than if you hadn't cut off the tip. If the shaft has a "soft" tip, it only makes sense, the more you cut off the soft section of the shaft, the stiffer the rest will play. Does that make sense?
Milehigh; it depends some on whether the shaft has a "soft" or "stiff" tip. If the shaft has a real stiff tip, and you cut off more of that "stiff" section, what's left may end up playing softer than if you hadn't cut off the tip. If the shaft has a "soft" tip, it only makes sense, the more you cut off the soft section of the shaft, the stiffer the rest will play. Does that make sense?
That's not necessarily true. When you cut a graphite shaft to fit a 3 wood, 5 wood, etc., instead of a Driver, you end up cutting material from both ends of the shaft. You cut from the tip to stiffen it because of the additional weight of the fairway wood heads. That helps to maintain the proper flex throughout the set.
When trimming iron shafts you'll notice that in most all of the trimming instructions you are removing a bit more of the tip as you go through the set. This is for the exact same reason. The iron heads increase in weight as the loft increases so in order to maintain the proper flex you trim a little more from the tip as the loft increases.
Numerous times I've fitted players into a "firm" flex with an R/S combination shaft. I merely split the difference betweeen the trimming instructions for the tips.
Milehigh; it depends some on whether the shaft has a "soft" or "stiff" tip. If the shaft has a real stiff tip, and you cut off more of that "stiff" section, what's left may end up playing softer than if you hadn't cut off the tip. If the shaft has a "soft" tip, it only makes sense, the more you cut off the soft section of the shaft, the stiffer the rest will play. Does that make sense?
To be more specific.
I have a Cobra x speed driver that has a factory installed Mitsubishi Rayon Blue Board shaft.
Pepto; If you look at what I posted, I did say "may end up playing softer". I said it that way because it could go either way. As for trimming more off the tip of the iron shafts for the shorter clubs, just the fact that the shafts get shorter with the more lofted head, that alone will make the shaft stiffer. A three foot piece of tubing will bend easier than a two foot piece of the same tubing. Tip trimming the shafts in a set of irons has as much to do with having the bend points were they need to be, as with getting the flex correct.
Milehigh; I went to that link and I see the part about 3 II. If I'm reading that chart correctly, and I'm baseing this on what I've been reading from other charts on shaft charateristics for 4 years, that "3 II" is telling you how long the parallel tip of the factory shaft is, not about trimming the shaft. "The 3 means 3 inches, the II is the symbol for "parallel", it's meant to repersent two parrallel lines. So, if that's all you are talking and asking about, I don't see what difference it would make in your club. That data is only to let a club builder know how much of the tip is parallel, so he knows how much he could trim off the end of the shaft before the diameter starts to increase and cause trouble fitting the shaft into a club head. I has nothing to do with flex or tip trimming other than what the "maximum" amount that the shaft can be tip trimmed.
Pepto; If you look at what I posted, I did say "may end up playing softer". I said it that way because it could go either way. As for trimming more off the tip of the iron shafts for the shorter clubs, just the fact that the shafts get shorter with the more lofted head, that alone will make the shaft stiffer. A three foot piece of tubing will bend easier than a two foot piece of the same tubing. Tip trimming the shafts in a set of irons has as much to do with having the bend points were they need to be, as with getting the flex correct.
I understood what you said. That's why I wrote "not necessarily true".
Pep: I guess I was being a bit defensive there. It comes from having been jumped on a few times on some of the other golf websites for stating an opinion. Thanks for being open and understanding.
I noticed that you list a "anodized" SnakeEyes wedge. I didn't know they made an anodized wedge. When did you get it? I didn't know SnakeEyes made and aluminum wedges, or anyone else for that matter. I wouldn't think an aluminum club would wear well enough. Live and learn I guess.
Pep: I guess I was being a bit defensive there. It comes from having been jumped on a few times on some of the other golf websites for stating an opinion. Thanks for being open and understanding.
I noticed that you list a "anodized" SnakeEyes wedge. I didn't know they made an anodized wedge. When did you get it? I didn't know SnakeEyes made and aluminum wedges, or anyone else for that matter. I wouldn't think an aluminum club would wear well enough. Live and learn I guess.
Thanks for bringing that up. I posted my clubs at about 1:30 a.m. one evening and didn't even notice that until you mentioned it.
It's a "Dark Forged" wedge. You are correct. It's not aluminum.
September 11th, 2006, 04:42 PM
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