Indacup; Thank you for posted that infomation on shaft flex and frequency readings of the butt end of a shaft. I had been told the same thing awhile back, and I contacted TT to get an answer. The reply I got from the TT rep, was exactly what you just posted, all the frequency meter is telling you when you clamp the shaft at the butt, is the stiffness of that portion of the shaft that is inside the clamp, namely the butt. I know that there are a lot of people that go to a golf shop and have their clubs tested and come away with some false data for their trouble. While butt end stiffness may have an effect on how a shaft will play, it's by no means the most important factor in how you will hit your new driver, or any other club. I still have the email I got from TT, if anyone would like to see it and comfirm what you just posted.
Well I played my R7 Draw with the new NVS 65R Shaft, It feels a lot less whippy that the stock TaylorMade Shaft. I am still not getting as much carry as I did with my old driver, but I am getting some decent roll now. I also think that the club is not as forgiving as it was before, I can not really get it to draw out anymore just a slight left action. All in All though I am really liking the NVS/R7D combo. Some more range time and some more course time and I am sure I will be back to my old self (without the fading)
I was thinking about your shaft that was 245 cpm uncut and turned out 265 after you butt cut it to length.
What I usually do is first clamp the raw shaft with the butt end even with the clamp edge and measure it. I then clamp it in with the amount of butt end I intend to cut off extended outside the clamp. If I get nearly the same reading I know that I can safely butt-cut it to length.
If the frequency goes either up or down I then clamp the shaft several times with different amounts of the butt extended past the clamp edge.
If the frequency continues to go either up or down I may end up cutting it all from the tip, or a little from each end. Sometimes this ends up going against what trimming instructions the manufacturer recommends, but it has worked out quite well in fitting various customers.
Does that sound like a better approach?
Last edited by Pepto : October 3rd, 2006 at 01:19 PM.
Pepto; the main thing I might have a problem with is when you have a shaft with a soft tip. If you did, and you cut off more of the tip than recommended, you might end up with not enough of the soft tip left, and the ball flight might not end up as what you had be looking for. Does that make sense? To be honest, I have to wonder how much the stiffness of the butt end of the shaft has to do with how the club will play. The butt end of the shaft in inside the grip, which will stiffen it some, and it's inside you two hands, so how much difference would it make if the butt measured stiffer than what you think it should be? How much bending of the shaft takes place under your hands? Compared to all the rest of the shaft that is beyond the end of your grip on the club, does it really matter? Quite honestly, I don't know. But I'm thinking that if the last 8 inches of the butt end of the shaft was solid steel, it wouldn't make a big difference, other than the weight. I could be all wrong on this, but that's what I'm thinking. If anyone has any hard data that says otherwise, I'd be interested in seeing it.
I understand your point with the soft tip. It probably would alter the shaft performance some. All I know is that I've had overwheling success with this method and until I come up with about 15 grand to purchase something that will do a better job, I'll have to stick with it. It hasn't let me down yet.
I understand your point with the soft tip. It probably would alter the shaft performance some. All I know is that I've had overwheling success with this method and until I come up with about 15 grand to purchase something that will do a better job, I'll have to stick with it. It hasn't let me down yet.
$1,500?
You can get a CS Jr for $100 that can do shaft profiling.
This is very low cost...you'll need to make a dampener...but that's easy and cheap...for about $100 more, you can get the CSII which heas everything you need....already done for you.
it a combo of things -shaft(try multiple shafts and see what works for you( i would suggest the prolaunch)) swing( might need to see your local pro) and even the club( try a different driver(there are soo many out there for the price of a R7) i had the R7 when i first came out...good driver if you ask me
Anyone tried that Calloway display with the interchangeable shafts?
I have... the one at a nearby range had about 20 or so shafts to choose from (only 2 of them interested me) and switching heads was a "snap" literally, since that's what it sounds like when they wrench it on the shaft).
I came to find that the FT-3 Tour 9.5 was the club for me with the X460 Tour a really close second. Both with the Grafalloy blue. I was able to compare the Blue to the Diamana 73 and found that the blue was actually better for me than the Diamana (and better for my bank account, thankfully).
It's a really good way to play with shaft/head combinations and if you are good friends with the shop owner, it's best to go back a couple of times and retry things. If you are really interested in buying a Callaway, they should have no problem with that.
October 2nd, 2006, 03:02 PM
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