Looking at the V2 shaft, it has a rough surface, not the usual smooth varnish finish. Do you still have to rough up the tip to install it or could you just go straight in. I imagine the rough surface would help the glue hold.
It it rough paint surface? Rough graphite surface? I've preped a few V2 shafts and I know the paint is a little thick on them. The tip should have no paint where the epoxy is to take hold. Is the shaft a pull?
It it rough paint surface? Rough graphite surface? I've preped a few V2 shafts and I know the paint is a little thick on them. The tip should have no paint where the epoxy is to take hold. Is the shaft a pull?
Just a rough surface overall, I don't know if it's the paint or the material, I guess it's the paint. It's just not shiny like other shafts. I know it's not just my one because I've seen heps of them and they're all like this. No it's not a pull.
Just a rough surface overall, I don't know if it's the paint or the material, I guess it's the paint. It's just not shiny like other shafts. I know it's not just my one because I've seen heps of them and they're all like this. No it's not a pull.
If the color is dark grey - it's the shaft. If it's yellow to white, it's the paint.
There are a lot of graphite shafts now that come with the tip not painted. This is so you don't have to remove all that paint, making it easier to install. It's real easy to tell if it's paint you are looking at or raw graphite. Scrape the area gently with a razor blade, if you get paint peeling off, Guess what? it's paint. If not, it's raw shaft. If that's the case just sand it lightly to roughen up the surface and install in. If you get paint coming off, remove all the paint first, then rougnen up the surface before you install it in the head.
If that's the case just sand it lightly to roughen up the surface and install in. If you get paint coming off, remove all the paint first, then rougnen up the surface before you install it in the head.
I believe you're not supposed to sand graphite shafts at all, because the sand paper can get into the fibers of the shaft and wreck it.
i have never had a problem with wet/dry sand paper. what do you think that strip he was using was? it was emery cloth, which is not a whole lot different.
i have never had a problem with wet/dry sand paper. what do you think that strip he was using was? it was emery cloth, which is not a whole lot different.
He was using a prep strip, which I use for graphite tip prep. It seems to be a palstic type material. They don't seem to last very long, however.
Mr-sooty: I've been using 120 grit crocus cloth to lightly sand the tip of all my graphite shafts for 4 years now. I've never had a shaft break or any other problems. I use a light "shoe shine" motion with the cloth, and it leave very small lines around the shaft. 90 degrees from the axis of the shaft. This makes for an excellent amount of extra gripping power for the epoxy, and unless you go overboard with the sanding, you shouldn't have any problems. As for what the Golfsmith video shows, I have not looked at it, but I did take the half day clubmaking class from Goflsmith. And in the class, the instructor, who is the clubmaker in the store, he had the students in the class, sand the tip of all shafts, steel or graphite, on a 1 inch belt sander. NOW, I'm not saying that's my idea of a good idea, but it goes to show you how much opinions vary on this issue. I wouldn't recommend using 40 grit sandpaper, but 120 grit wet or dry, or crocus cloth, is not going to harm the shaft. Now that I think about it, that driver I built in that class and sanded the shaft on the belt sander, It's still in one piece, it hasn't failed, so maybe even a belt sander isn't that bad. You do what you want, but I'm sticking with my 120 grit crocus cloth.
October 8th, 2006, 07:15 PM
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