As for the tungsten, it's not a trade secret, Golfsmith sells the powder just for this use. You pour it down the shaft, and add a cork on top to hold it in place.
This brings up another question. If filling the shaft "up to the hosel" with tunsten brings the swing weight up that much, do you cork it off at that point? And if you do, how would you get a cork that far down the shaft. Kind of a tough visual for me. Corking in any area but just above the tungsten would allow it to move, wouldn't it?
As for the tungsten, it's not a trade secret, Golfsmith sells the powder just for this use. You pour it down the shaft, and add a cork on top to hold it in place.
This brings up another question. If filling the shaft "up to the hosel" with tunsten brings the swing weight up that much, do you cork it off at that point? And if you do, how would you get a cork that far down the shaft. Kind of a tough visual for me. Corking in any area but just above the tungsten would allow it to move, wouldn't it?
I was wondering this as well...what material is used for corking and how is it done?
I've heard of people filling little sections of drinking straws with tungsten powder and applying epoxy to the ends of the straw as a sealer, resulting in a small capsule of tungsten powder. Then they treat the straw section like a plug (epoxy in place).
This brings up another question. If filling the shaft "up to the hosel" with tunsten brings the swing weight up that much, do you cork it off at that point? And if you do, how would you get a cork that far down the shaft. Kind of a tough visual for me. Corking in any area but just above the tungsten would allow it to move, wouldn't it?
Golfsmith also sells small "corks", made of, guess what? CORK. You slip the cork down the shaft on top of the powder, and push in all the way in with a small rod, a 1/4" dowel will do the job. And YES, it has to go all the way down against the powder, or it woulf move around inside the shaft, not a good thing to have happening.
Golfsmith also sells small "corks", made of, guess what? CORK. You slip the cork down the shaft on top of the powder, and push in all the way in with a small rod, a 1/4" dowel will do the job. And YES, it has to go all the way down against the powder, or it woulf move around inside the shaft, not a good thing to have happening.
Now we're on track. I suppose the only question now is to determine the size cork needed to seal the tungsten at the proper point so it's not moving around. Anybody??
Now we're on track. I suppose the only question now is to determine the size cork needed to seal the tungsten at the proper point so it's not moving around. Anybody??
Beemer: please read my last post again, and you will see that I stated that Golfsmith sells the corks for this. You just buy the cork from them and it fits. If you don't want to do that, just find a small cork thats between 5/16" and 3/8" in diameter, so it fits nice and tight in the bottom of the shaft. That's for a steel shaft.
Beemer: please read my last post again, and you will see that I stated that Golfsmith sells the corks for this. You just buy the cork from them and it fits. If you don't want to do that, just find a small cork thats between 5/16" and 3/8" in diameter, so it fits nice and tight in the bottom of the shaft. That's for a steel shaft.
I guess I was thinking it would be difficult to deternine how high the tungsten was up the shaft, therefore knowing how large a cork to get due to the taper on the shaft. I'll drop it there.......thanks for all the info.
One putt is right. Since I have a few Ram Rods here (used in reshafting) I use these to shove the cork all the way down below the hosel line. This is important because you could introduce a shear point if its above the hosel. Its the same if you add too much epoxy so that it shoots up the shaft above the hosel, if its lightweight steel or graphite its just a matter of time before you bust the shaft on a range mat or anywhere.
Anyways, the way you can tell how far the cork is down: hold the ramrod with you fingers right at the top of the shaft while its inside the shaft. Keep this placed marked, pull the ramrod out and hold it against the outside of the shaft. Keep your mark at the top of the shaft and look down. The end of the rod is where your cork is.
The corks and tungsten powder are available at GS or GW. I usually pick these up at their annual sales. They also make a device that temporarily widens the vent hole in the grip to facilitate this process. Hence, you can save the grip!
I should mention, this is a process for steel shafted clubs only. You risk breakage with graphite, especially at the shear points. This is not to say you can't do it for graphite -- I've done a few for my own clubs only, but never for a customer.
December 13th, 2006, 07:42 AM
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