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Old December 3rd, 2006, 03:53 PM
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GOLFMADMIKE GOLFMADMIKE is offline
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Unhappy Shaft Glue

Hi

I have recently started mucking about with replacing grips and shafts with no advise or training. I removed some reg shafts from my Ping ISI copper heads and replaced them with a set of Dynamic Gold shift shafts. I now want to replace these with another set i got off ebay cos i didnt have long enough shafts for 3 and 4 irons. When I removed the original shafts by hot air gun (its ok Im in no rush ) it took about 8-9 mins per club. When I removed the dymanic shafts it only took about 30-40 secs per club. I used some general Epoxy Resin from a hardware store and wonder is this glue is man enough, as I dont want a club head hitting my playing partner or anyone else.
Can anyone help or advise?

Mike
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Old December 3rd, 2006, 05:28 PM
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Should be right. Epoxy Resin is the stuff. Here in New Zealand I use 5 minute Araldite, which is a brand of Epoxy Resin mix. Dunno if you have that in England, but that's the stuff.
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Old December 3rd, 2006, 05:52 PM
ballgofar1 ballgofar1 is offline
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You can get either 5 minute or 24 hour (2 Part) from a company called B&M Golf. 4 oz. kit for either one will do about 10 to 15 full sets of clubs. 5 minute is good to go after about an hour. All my clubs have been done with 5 minute with no problems (same stuff used on tour vans) The cost is about $15 for the 5 minute 4 oz kit or $9 for the 4 oz 24 hr kit. You can also check them out on line at bandmgolf.com.
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Old December 3rd, 2006, 08:58 PM
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I would never use anything less that 24hr epoxy. The cure time is indicative of the tensil strenght when cured. I flew model and built RC giant scale planes for 8 years, and you never used less than 30 minute on critical joints, why use 5 minute on a golf club. Especially irons that may take some hard ground hits. You can find good shafting epoxy everywhere on the net, use it.
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Old December 3rd, 2006, 10:40 PM
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for the irons, i use the regulsr epoxy from golfworks, for woods, i use the 5 minute gel from Devon (white and light blue tubes) which holds very well but releases quite easy with heat.
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Old December 4th, 2006, 11:53 AM
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For me... Woods/irons use a shafting epoxy with a high shear stress (regardless of set time)...

For wedges and putters, I have had much success with a quick-set epoxy. Lower stresses in those clubs, so there's not much worry.

Just be sure to prep the tip and the hosel well before applying the epoxy.
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Old December 4th, 2006, 03:28 PM
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glfrjack

Thanks for the tip. I took out these clubs on the range today, just as well cos the 9iron head flew off after 3 hits. (didnt hit anyone! thank god) These shafts were brough off Ebay and discrided as "professionally removed" I did notice that the end of shaft was very shinny but as pull outs I assummed they'd be OK to stick into my heads. Obviously not!! When you mention "prep" what do you mean
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Old December 4th, 2006, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GOLFMADMIKE
glfrjack

Thanks for the tip. I took out these clubs on the range today, just as well cos the 9iron head flew off after 3 hits. (didnt hit anyone! thank god) These shafts were brough off Ebay and discrided as "professionally removed" I did notice that the end of shaft was very shinny but as pull outs I assummed they'd be OK to stick into my heads. Obviously not!! When you mention "prep" what do you mean
Make sure all the old epoxy is removed from the tip and lightly sand the tip until the tip is dull (for steel shafts). Also, sand the inside of the hosel to remove any old epoxy. I also take an alcohol swab to the inside of the hosel, just to help clean them (not sure if this is necessary or even helpful... more for my peace of mind).

I'm sure other, more accomplished clubmakers would have some tips as well...
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Old December 23rd, 2006, 11:11 AM
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24 hour epoxy is the best, all others dont have the tensil strenght or pliability. Be careful as if a head were to fly of and hit someone you would be very open to a lawsuit. Woods especially should be done with 24 hr. epoxy as they absorb the most shock and stress.
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