A buddy of mine uses a tool to re-groove his wedges and gets incredible action around the greens. I tried this on one of my wedges and couldn't believe how easy it is to get the ball to check up on chips and pitches...is this thing legal to use?
a. Playing Characteristics Changed
During a stipulated round, the playing characteristics of a club must not be purposely changed by adjustment or by any other means.
Therefore, you can't use a grooving tool during competition. But you can use it before or after a round, so long as the grooves meet USGA specs:
Quote:
c. Impact Area Markings
Markings in the impact area must not have sharp edges
or raised lips as determined by a finger test. Grooves or punch marks in the impact area must meet the following specifications:
(i) Grooves. A series of straight grooves with diverging sides and a symmetrical cross-section may be used (see Fig. X).
• The width and cross-section must be consistent across the face of the club and along the length of the grooves.
• Any rounding of groove edges shall be in the form of a radius which does not exceed 0.020 inches (0.508 mm).
• The width of the grooves must not exceed 0.035 inches (0.9 mm), using the 30 degree method of measurement on file with the United States Golf Association.
• The distance between edges of adjacent grooves must not be less than three times the width of a groove, and not less than 0.075 inches (1.905 mm).
• The depth of a groove must not exceed 0.020 inches (0.508 mm).
Square grooves are illegal. Regrooving is not a bad idea but keep in mind that it takes a good while to wear down grooves...of course that depends on hardness of the metal but you sure don't want to overuse the groove tool (cut too much). Sharp grooves are less important for the long irons than they are for the mid and short irons. Fresh grooves help but how you hit the ball is still the primary factor in imparting spin.
c. Impact Area Markings
Markings in the impact area must not have sharp edges
or raised lips as determined by a finger test. Grooves or punch marks in the impact area must meet the following specifications:
(i) Grooves. A series of straight grooves with diverging sides and a symmetrical cross-section may be used (see Fig. X).
• The width and cross-section must be consistent across the face of the club and along the length of the grooves.
• Any rounding of groove edges shall be in the form of a radius which does not exceed 0.020 inches (0.508 mm).
• The width of the grooves must not exceed 0.035 inches (0.9 mm), using the 30 degree method of measurement on file with the United States Golf Association.
• The distance between edges of adjacent grooves must not be less than three times the width of a groove, and not less than 0.075 inches (1.905 mm).
• The depth of a groove must not exceed 0.020 inches (0.508 mm).
I would include a diagram, but suffice it to say that grooves with the shapes:
V, U, and \_/ are allowed. If the grooves made by the tool are within these guidelines, they are legal.
A buddy of mine uses a tool to re-groove his wedges and gets incredible action around the greens. I tried this on one of my wedges and couldn't believe how easy it is to get the ball to check up on chips and pitches...is this thing legal to use?
As stated by the others, as long as the size of the grooves stay inside the limits set, the new groove will be legal. What I'd like to know is your friends opinion of how easy or hard it is to use the tool on different sets of irons. Is it easy to use, or is it easy to mess up a nice set of clubs? Would you mind asking him and getting back to us? Thanks in advance.
Anyone have anymore input on this? I would like to use one on my wedges that are several years old but don't want to pay $30 for one if it's not worth a ****.
Last edited by shaderunner : January 18th, 2007 at 01:09 AM.
Reason: *sigh*
bought it today, it works OK, but quickly wore away after about 3-4 grooves. its pretty much used up already.. i was thinking about buying the replacement carbide bit for the golfsmith one and making my own handle. the bit may be worth 8 bux, but the handle sure isnt worth the $20.
i wouldnt recommend the IZZO thing. carbide is the way to go. i wonder if i could find something from a machine shop or harbor freight etc..
January 10th, 2007, 01:09 PM
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