Hi ,
I purchased a set of pro force gold shafts in Regular flex by accident. I need a firm flex not quite stiff. Could these be but cut or tip trimmed to achive a stiffer flex? They are all uncut new shafts. Thanks.
If you cut an extra 3/4 - 1" off each shaft, they should play to roughly a firm flex. Make sure the PTS is long enough to do this, or you'll wind up with shafts that are useless.
The parrallel tip section on these shafts is 5.5" long. Hosel depth is typically 1.25 to 1.5 inches. I'm not sure where these shaft fall on Bump & Runs instructions, but since you can't trim more than 4" off of them, then they should be the first group. This means that they already have you trimming the max allowable with these shafts. The short answer is no, you can't trim them to make them into a Firm. RMA them and get a stiff, then trim them 1/2" LESS than instructed to get a Firm.
All PF models have 5.5" Parallel Tip Section (PTS) and the Comp Series has 6.5" PTS. Trimming chart for ALL PF iron shafts says 4" for 9i down, that leaves you 1.5" remaining. If you trim an extra 3/4", you now have 3/4" parallel tip left to go in the hosel. Unless these are the low hosel Callaway irons, you ain't gonna bottom out unless you step drill the top of the hosel.
Now, Lowof83, I don't know what kind of irons you have or who did the install, but your talking about doing something that can't be done. I stand by my recommendation to return the R flex and order the S flex. Then, Stowe can reduce the amount of trimming and get his desired Firm flex with no worry at all about ruining shafts.
BT; If lowof83 has done this before, I find it hard to believe it can't be done. Also, with graphite shafts, you have to remember that there's a thick layer of paint on them. Romoving that paint, which you have to do as part of the tip prep, will reduce the tip diameter as much as .020". That's enough to make for a sloppy fit of the shaft in the hosel. and should be more than enough to allow the shaft to be installed an extra 3/4 inch. This can be done with out harming the graphite under the paint, so I see no reason why it can't be done. Plus, it seems that it has been done in the past, Lowof83 has a set done this way.
I absolutely agree that it'd be easier to get a firm flex by soft tipping a stiff flex shaft.
There is another couple things none of us has asked yet. Exactly which ProForce shaft is being used? and what are they going into?
I've got the RV2 95 shafts in my hybrids. Even in a standard R flex, it plays stiffer than most graphite iron shafts I've had any dealings with. There may be no need to tip them to firm because they may play to firm already.
Note the fact that in the original post, I said:
Quote:
Originally Posted by lowof83
Make sure the PTS is long enough to do this, or you'll wind up with shafts that are useless.
Now, if Stowe doesn't know what the PTS of a shaft is, he's no business installing a shaft in anything to start with. Hopefully, he's done his homework, and at the least watched a video on clubmaking.
Removing the paint isn't going to hurt any graphite shaft, so what's your point? I didn't tell him to turn the shaft diameter down to fit, only remove the paint.
The guy that works on my clubs might have gone this route of certification ...I need a quality clubmaker!
I hear you. When I was into it, I learned by reading everything I could get my hands on. I don't even do my own work now usually.
Proper tools are required to do a good job, as well as staying on top of everything. The local guy here has been at it for over 30 years, and (luckily) isn't stuck in the past. He's on top of every new development.
The people at Solid Rock Golf did my hybrids for me, and the work is top notch. No way I could possibly complain about them. Shoot Christian a PM if you'd like. He went so far as to special order everything except the grips when he put my hybrids together, and even does spine-aligning at no extra charge.