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I have a set of titelist irons with R300 shafts. I want to remove the shafts and put precision
rifle shaft in. How do I remove shafts w/o damaging club head?

Isn't this something that requires a hydraulic tool? I'm pretty sure you can do a lot of damage to the club head if you don't know what you're doing. Best idea would be to take it to a local clubsmith

No, this doesn't take a hydraulic tool. All you need is a a heat source to break down the epoxy, and a shaft puller comes in handy, but is not required. If you have never done this, which it appears you haven't, I'd recommend you take the 1/2 day club making course at Golfsmith. If you don't, you might just end up ruining a good set of irons instead. Pulling shafts isn't very hard, but like most other things in life, you have to know what you're doing if you want it to work out okay.

You can safely remove steel shafts from clubs without a shaft puller. It will be fairly tedious to do a whole set in this manner. A suitable pry bar will make your life easier. If you have neither, you'll have to heat the hosel with a torch hot enough to twist and pull the head off by hand. You'll need at least one pretty thick thermo glove cuz those suckers will be hot. Its very difficult to "ruin" iron heads. The abolute worse that will happen is that you may have scorch marks. Yes, you want to avoid this but they are removable and so its not a huge deal. Just keep the flame moving 360 around the hosel. If you do scorch the hosel a bit, you can use Barkeepers friend on an ultrafine steel wool and they will quickly disappear. Scotch brite pads will work as well. Like I said, it will take time and patience without a pusher, but can be done.

BTW, make sure you remove the ferrule first. Gently heat the ferrule and then massage a stanley knife in a pivoting fashion to shave the ferrule off. You will have a mess on you hands if you try to save the ferrules!

Thank you. This will save me about 150.00 to do this myself.

Exactly! Well written!

For gloves, you can get leather gardening gloves for under 5 bucks to pull the heads with.,

Bear in mind, the advice you got was for iron heads on STEEL shafts...try this on graphite shafts and you'll get yourself in a world of hurt...

I've seen the after-effects. A friend tried to pull a graphite shaft out of a 5 wood without a puller. The graphite broke down enough in the heating process that twisting it loose broke and frayed the end of the shaft. I think they had to drill it out at the golf shop.

The graphite broke down enough in the heating process that twisting it loose broke and frayed the end of the shaft

That's the main reason you're not supposed to ever "twist" the head when you pull a shaft. Not real good with a steel shaft for that matter. I think that if you don't want to re-use the graphite shaft in the first place, the best thing to do is just cut off the shaft flush with the hosel, and then drill out the tip. No chance to damage the head that way, which can happen pretty easily when you have a composite driver head.

You can use a twisting motion to remove the steel shafts (it actually makes it a bit easier), but not graphite. Pulling graphite shafts is a job for ONLY trained professionals. However, if you do not want to save the graphite shaft, then OnePutt's advise is perfect. Just make sure you can get your hands on an "R" size drill bit (for .335" wood bores) or a 3/8" drill bit (for .370 iron bores). You will need it to clean the hosel completely.

A word of warning!
Some bore-thru wood heads have a hollow section that the bore passes through. They have a shim that fits in the bore before the shaft that encases the shaft and epoxy so that none drips into the clubhead and causes rattles. If you intend to reshaft one of these clubs, you MUST get a new shim because the old one will be destroyed when the original shaft is removed

BT

also, try asking your local pro for some hands on advice, 10 minutes of time could go a long way