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I am looking for a graphite shaft, which would be lighter in weight and no sting. My HI is 12 and my SS is about 85 mph.

Looking for something that is lighter than steel, will get the ball in the air and with fairly low torque.

Should I keep the steel shafts in my wedges, or would I be better off getting those in graphite as well? I don't often take full shots with my wedges, but do on occasion.

Thank you for your time.

True Temper - The #1 Shaft in Golf

Take a look at these...as light as graphite but still steel...best of both worlds it would seem, but I have no experience either practical or secondhand concerning these...

Check out the Ping Raptures with the 909i graphite shafts. You'll love them!

PING : Rapture Irons

Thanks, Bump. Didn't know steel could be that light.

Isn't that a proprietary shaft just available for Ping clubs? I won't be buying any clubs anytime soon...I've finally realized that the swing is the thing.

I'm not sure we would gain much if anything going to lighter shafts in your irons. If you do make the move, do it with all your irons, including the wedges so they all feel the same. If you go graphite, you'll have to spend at least $25 per shaft to get one with a low torque rating, and that's just for the shaft, labor not included. Unless your arms get tired hitting balls with your steel shaft irons, I wouldn't recommend the switch.

Yes. Then I would keep what you have.

Theres a lot of graphite options out there...about 5 years ago, due to the lack of technology, graphite was used in maybe 5% of all the iron sets we did...now it's closer to about 30% and all age groups and genders.

I have them in both my iron sets and can't imagine why anyone would want to go back to steel after hitting properly fitted graphite.

I DO recommend you using graphite from wedges up to woods....make sure their frequency matched.

You can get very good shafts by shelling out big bucks...but can also get some very good shafts for well under $20 each....you'll also find that low torque is really not so much a necessity with irons as they are with the longer clubs and drivers.

Thanks, but what do you mean by "frequency matched"?

Frequency matching gets you a true flex match, if I understand the technology correctly. That said, I've played (and liked) both the Rifle frequency matched shafts and the UST Proforce shafts.
From a personal feel standpoint, I preferred the USTs. They have more of a steel feel to them.

Thanks, Low!

Lowof 83; There is one thing you should know about freguency matching shafts. When they measure the freguency of the shaft, they clamp the butt end of the shaft in the machine. What this does is measure only the stiffness of the section of shaft inside the clamp. NOT THE WHOLE SHAFT. What this means, is that only the butt section of the set of shafts are frequency matched, not the whole shaft. Personnally, I'm not to sure how important it is the have the only the butt end frequency matched. I'd rather have the whole shaft match, not just a section of the shaft that will be inside my hands. I'd think the part of the shaft that is outside my hands, the part that will be bending, would be more important to have match. Just my opinion.

Though not an expert on frequency matching golf-shafts, or the machinery / equipment used, I doubt that they only measure frequency of a small section at the grip end of the club. The fact that the machine holds it there doesn't mean that only the end of the club contributes to the measurement. In fact, because it is held there, it may not be contributing to the frequency measurement, while the rest of the shaft is.

Straightshooter. The information I posted was directly from True Temper, the largest maker of golf shafts in the world. I asked TT about frequency meters and they told me what I just posted, The meter only measures the stiffness of that part of the shaft that is inside the clamp. If it's a 5 inch wide clamp, it measures the stiff of that 5 inch section. If you want to measure the entire shaft, you need to do the test on a number of 5 inch sections, until you measure the whole shaft. You can believe this, or you can contact True Temper yourself and ask them. After I got that information from TT, I asked a few other sources, and all of them told me that the info I got from TT was in fact correct. If you don't know this, you might be interested to know that they now make a new machine that is called a shaft profiler. This machine is use to "profile" the entire length of the shaft and give a much more detailed "profile of the entire shaft. Much more expensive machine, but it does a much better job. As I posted, a frequency meter only tells you if the butt end of the shaft is stiff or not. and I can't put too much faith in that information. We all know that some shafts have stiff tips, and other have soft tips. So knowing the stiffness of the last 5 inchs of the butt end, doesn't really tell much about the whole shaft. Sorry, but that's the way it is.

I am shocked! It seems to me that it shouldn't be that hard to build an instrument that actually measures frequency of the useful portion of the shaft: Grip it, shake it, collect feedback.....

EDIT: PS .......Like this machine: Mitchell Golf Equipment Company