golfrewind.com

I'm building a set of irons very similar to this link
Tommy Knocker Z Modle II Iron
I'm guessing the head weights will be the same. With a standard set of TT steel shafts trimmed to 1/2" increments & the same grips how will theses clubs feel? Do I need to worry about swing weights or individual club weight or just glue them together & hope they feel OK? I wonder how OEM mfg's assemble there clubs? Do they weigh ea. club to be a standard 6 grams (or whatever value) apart for ea other ? I'm afraid if I just stick them togather I might be missing something.

Don't forget to tip trim to flex. Each head should be 5g difference. I would weight sort your shafts. Weigh and record weight on a piece of masking tape and attach to shaft so you can remember which is which, heaviest to the PW and work your way up, lightest in the 3I. Abrade the tips of the shafts so your epoxy will stick to it. Also abrade the inside of the hosels. Dry fit the heads and shafts. put on ferrules, seat them with the heads then apply your epoxy, don't be shy. Clean up excess seapage, there should be some. let dry for 24 hrs so the epoxy cures. Butt cut to playing length, you will want to cut them about 1/4 " shorter than you want them, the end cap of the grip will make up the difference. Install grips and let dry for around 1 hour. Then go golfing! You should be set. Hope this helps.

PS- check out HIREKOGOLF.com, they sell component heads that are cheaper priced and alot more pleasing to the eye than those.

There can a a fair bit of difference in swing weights with any set of irons, whether you buy a set off the rack or if you build your own set with components. The only way to make sure the sw are all the same, is to dry fit the components and check the sw on a scale. And NO, none of the OEM's take the time to swing weight every club them sell. Most every company makes their irons to weight pretty much the same, meaning all 9 iron heads will weigh about 282 grams, There is a tolerance limit for every thing, and it's the same for golf heads. They aim for 282 grams, but they will vary by a few grams, either side of that number. This is one reason you need to check sw on a scale to get them all exactly the same. This takes time, which is why none of the OEM's do it, Time is money, and they want to save as much money as they can.
As for cutting the clubs 1/4 inch short to allow for the grip, I've measured lots of grips and most every one have been 1/8 inch thick at the butt. So you should cut the shaft to 1/8 inch short, not 1/4 inch. If you have any other questions, don't hesitate to ask.
Happy New Year everyone one.

I read allot of different stuff on iron assembly. Basically there 2 methods, cutting ea shaft @ 1/2" increments & the 7gm difference in head weights SHOULD give you a constant swing weight through out. The other method is the MOI. I opted for the 1st but did make 1 mistake. I do not have a scale & figured all shafts weigh the same because they are same spec & mfg. So I cut shafts to speck & stuck & glued. Hit them today & they felt very good. In hindsite I should have weight sorted ea. shaft 1st to make sure it's an even weight progression. I will get a scale to double check just for future reference.

I meant 7g difference.

Lets make this clear. You have to weigh the heads prior to assembly. The shafts will vary +/- 5 grams or so which is not a huge deal. However, feel free to weigh the shafts as well. Because, there are a number of free swingweight calculators where you can plug in the weights of your components and predict how much head weight you'll need to add to match the swingweights. If you do not feel like doing that much (which isn't much), then you can make sure the heads are 7g apart if your clubs are going to be in 1/2" steps. This will get you fairly close. The spreadsheet at the bottom right of this link is very accurate. A swingweight scale is not needed, mathematical calculations are just as accurate, even more in some cases. Here's why -- the software does not take in account for different balance points in different shafts. The one here is calculated for the use of dynamic gold shafts. However, swingweight scales can be off as much as 2-3 points. I've always used this spreadsheet and then put the final product on my scale.... dead nuts on every time.

myOstrich Golf

Easy process, and using the spreadsheet you can preset the heft to your liking. Having the heads 7g apart isn't all that useful if the intitial swingweight is uncomfortable for you.

One Question. If swing weight scales can be off as much as 2 -3 points. How do you know your scale is correct? You say you can weigh a club and it's dead on with the spreadsheet. But if a scale can be off 2-3 points, how do you know your scale is correct? Or if the spreadsheet is also off, and it just happens to match your scale?
Second point. How can the spreadsheet be more accurate when you state that it doesn't take into acount the balance point of the shaft? My scale will take it into account, when I put the club on the scale. How can a spreadsheet that doesn't take this into account be more accurate? Is not possible. Does the program take into account the weight of the epoxy used to attach the head? When I mix up epoxy, I use a scale to make sure I use equal amounts of each part, and I mix up 8 grams of epoxy for each club I'm building. I know for a fact, that 8 grams of epoxy will increase the swing weight a fair amount. More so than a head that is 1 or 2 grams heavy.

One other thing that is missing that alot of people forget is to make sure your putting the shafts in the hosel correctly. Once you have abrade the shaft and hosel and have applied epoxy to the shaft tip and the inside wall of the hosel you want to make sure you twist the shaft as you insert it in the hosel. As you slowly insert the shaft while twisting it, it will release any air pressure that might cause the epoxy to break down while curing. This will also force the excess epoxy out instead of it filling the inside of the shaft, which can weaken graphite shaft tips and cause them to break.

Its not a good idea to just fill the hosel with epoxy (like a cup) and then shove the shaft down in it.

I have found the best way to swing weight a club is to dry fit everything.... Keep inmind that if you have heads that weigh fairly well to spec with 7g dif., the shaft weights are very good as well (give or take a few grams/ heavier to wedges), and the clubs are .5" increments in length then the swing weights should come out VERY similar.