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I am looking for a higher trajectory, and vibration dampening for my G10s. This is the shaft configuration I am considering:

I am looking for shafts that will promote a higher trajectory and dampen vibration in my G10s. Been doing a lot of research and came up with the following:

Driver: Grafalloy ProLaunch Blue 45 (44.50")
4-Wood: Grafalloy ProLaunch Blue 45 (42.50")
3-Hybrid: Grafalloy ProLaunch Blue HY
4, 5, 6, and 7 irons: Grafalloy ProLaunch Blue Iron Shafts
8, 9, PW: Royal Precision Rifles w/ProSoft Inserts
Tour-W wedges: Royal Precision Rifle Spinners w/ProSoft inserts

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

My first thought is I hope you like a high torque shaft in your woods and driver. The 45 gram Prolaunch has a torque of 5.0*, much too high for my tastes. As for vibration absorbtion, why don't you check out the TT Sessicore shafts, or just the inserts, which you can get at Golfsmith. You should get a higher ball flight, but I'm not sure you'll like the accuracy of your set with those high torque shafts. Are you happy with the accuracy of your irons now? The shafts in your irons have a lot of torque now, but the Prolaunch shafts have even more. Also not sure why your thinking of going to the 45 gram version of the Prolaunch for your woods and driiver.

I've been talking with and met with my club builder yesterday. This is the final result (been having some physical problems and my pro strongly recommended graphite). I dropped the clubs off and they should be ready in a week or so. Please see signature. Thanks!

The higher the torque number the easier the shaft twists upon impact. His iron shafts now would be stiffer as far as torque than putting in graphites although I haven't seen any torque ratings on steel shafts. I believe his main concern comes from soreness or joint problems or trying to avoid them so most graphites would help with that and the Porlaunch blue iron shafts would be somewhat close to iron shafts in torque but give a little less vibration transfer. I do agree that the 45 would give you less directional control and perhaps he was wanting a lighter shaft to swing father but the tradeoff would be control.

The Aerotech's have a very similar torque to regular iron shafts. The Grafalloy's aren't bad either. You have to have some torque. The only steel shaft in my bag is on the putter.

CoralPro; The torque of the Prolaunch iron shafts is 3.0 for R flex. I contacted TT and asked about torque for steel shafts, and they told me steel shaft torque would be 1.8 to 2.2 degrees, depending on flex. So an R flex should be right at 2.0 degrees, which is a good bit less than 3.0. As for vibrations, graphite will reduce vibrations by about 63 %, and the Sensicore inserts will reduce them by about 75 %. Since Sensicore works better, this is why I recommended Sensicore over graphite. As for more swing speed with a 45 gram shaft, that's not always the case. This summer I did a test with 3 drivers, one 54 grams shaft, one 65 grams, and one 75 grams. I tested my speed on a launch montitor that actually measure swing speed, and I got the same speed for all three driver, right at 105. While it may work for some golfers, it's not set in stone that it will. Which is one reason I always recommend getting on a launch monitor and get the real numbers before buying.

I Think you'll like the Aerotech. A little pricey, but an excellent shaft.

Thanks for the info and I knew why you advised what you recommended. It just sounded by the way you stated the torque numbers that you were implying the higher number meant more torque and it actually is inverted. Still not sure why they use those numbers and the way they use them. Perhaps it is just me trying to understand their terminology by calling it torque.

Thank you. I thought the were a bargain. The company does no advertising, marketing, endorsements, etc. All I paid for was the shaft. One club builder I talked to, and installs a lot of these, said that other shafts cost $20 to $30 more and aren't nearly the quality. I thought the price was very reasonable for such quality. I look forward to swinging with them.

CoralPro. Now you have me wondering what you think torque rating mean. The way it works is this. You take a shaft, clamp it at the butt end and surport the tip end in a ball bearing bracket. You then attach an L shaped arm to the tip end. One leg of this L shaped piece is horizontal, and you hang a weight on this arm. This weight will try to twist the shaft along it's axis. The lower arm of the L, is a pointer and you use this pointer to measure how much the shaft twists. The pointer will move along a protractor, and you get a reading in degrees. The more the shaft twists under this load, the higher the torque rating in degrees. So the fact is, "The higher the torque rating, the more the shaft will twist. This is why I like low torque shafts, less twisting under load. A shaft with a torque rating of 3.5*, will twist more than a shaft with a torqie rating of 2.2*. Steel shafts are very low torque, with a rating of 1.8* to 2.2*. I hope this clears things up. I have one of these torque measuring gauges, and they work quite well for measuring the torque of shafts. Any time I have a shaft of unknown torque value, I'll measure it and know exaxtly what I've got to work with.

With today's graphite shafts, torque is not all that interesting. It is primarily a parameter of feel and thats it. Back in the day when graphite first came out, the torque numbers ran as high as 15* and the lack of accuracy was a real concern. However, with the advancements of manufacturing techniques and materials, this problem has generally gone away. As long as the torque is under 5 or so, losing directional control as a result of higher torque is simply not going to happen. In general, a shaft with lower torque will feel a little harsher and stiffer.

Another important thing to consider is that there are no standards for measuring torque. You cannot compare the torque numbers from one company to the next. One company's 3.2* torque may be the same as another's 4.2* or anothers 1.8*. Its impossible to know unless you have the means to measure it yourself in your shop using a torque arm. This makes the assigned torque value even more less interesting.

The take home message is that torque probably should not have even entered this conversation. Shaft weight and profile is far more interesting. If you are having joint pain or other issues, switching to graphite is a great idea. Unless you swing as violent as Tiger does, slightly higher torque WILL NOT lead to any accuracy issues by itself. Not being comfortable with the static weight of your graphite shaft is the main culprit of said accuracy issues of switching to ultra-lightweight graphite.

I do realize what torque is but don't agree with thier numbering system to rate it. I guess I've always thought higher torque means it should fight being twisted across its' axis. When you compare their rating to that of the mechanical world when you have a high torque on a bolt it represents a number in which the bolt becomes harder to turn as the number rises. In golf shafts the harder it is to twist it gets a lower number and the easier it twists it gets a higher number. That is where my confusion would exist. I understand the rating they use and how they determine it but I don't agree it is the proper numbering system to use. I myself like the similar shafts you prefer because I have a fst aggressive swing and a softer tip and mid section allows the head to twist open at impact cuasing the ball to fade hard or balloon or possibly close and hook if timing is off. There is somewhat of a tradeoff though in I find my Fujikawa 757 speeder x-stiff tour spec is too stiff and reduces distance but the control is great.

With today's graphite shafts, torque is not all that interesting. It is primarily a parameter of feel and thats it.

This may be true for the 90 % of golfers with a swing speed below 90 MPH, but it's not true for everyone. When I first learned to play golf, I have a driver and 2 woods, each with an R flex shaft with a torque of 5.0*. And I couldn't hit the ball straight to save my life. Then I installed three new shafts, all R flex, but with a torque of 3.0*. It was like night and day. All of a sudden the ball was going straight and I wasn't having any problem finding the fairways. With the 5.08 torque shafts, I was hitting big hooks and big slices just about every time. I had the same flex shafts, the same weight shafts, just lower torque ratings, And the difference was eye opening. To this day, I refuse to use any shaft with a torque over 3.5*'s as I see no reason to do so. I see no reason why anyone would want a shaft with a lot of torque. You mention that a low torque shaft would feel harsh and stiffer. But all steel shafts have very low torque, 1.8 to 2.2 in fact. And I don't think steel shafts fell harsh or too stiff. Could all be in my head, but I've had high torque shafts before, and I will not have them again. I find them totally useless. I have 3 graphite shafts with a torque rating of 2.4*, and none of those clubs feel harsh or too stiff. They all feel fine, and I hit the ball straight with all three clubs. I like to go by personal experience, and my experience tells me high torque shafts are no good. Maybe if my swing speed was below 80 MPH. I might not feel this way. Fact is, I'd hate to build my wife a driver or wood with a shaft that had a torque rating as high as you say is okay.

CoralPro. I understand what you say about bolts, a high torque bolt is one that will handle a lot of torque. The machinist in me understands exactly. But shafts are rated for torque in degrees.And a high number of degrees would mean it would twist more under load. It may not be easy to understand for the average golfers, but it's the system we have and we need to deal with it and use the terms we have so we can understand each other.

They should have called it 'twist' rating instead of torque rating. I agree with coralpro that it is confusing, and renaming it would solve much of the problem. Nobody would misunderstand what a 'high twist' shaft is. Also it doesn't help that people abreviate 'torque rating' and simply call it 'torque' instead. The addition of the word rating has some function in alerting people that there is something 'fishy' about that nomenclature!