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I use this method all the time.with graphite shafts use a third rod and apply preasure at the kick point deflecting the shaft equal to what the shaft bends during your down stroke,now roll the shaft and you will feel the spines and neutral bend points.since your shaft rotates 90* during your down stroke you can keep the spines out of this area.I like the #1 neutral at 3:00and the #1 spine at 12:00.

I built mine using PVC and three precision bearings ( $11 each) from TrueValue. I only use it to find the predominant spine then FLO the shaft with the clubhead that's going on it. Lasers are cool but not necessary. If a player needs a shaft that's stiffer in the FLO direction than the one I'm testing then I either trim it or get another shaft. I also "flex profile" all shafts using the "now defunct PCS" Equalizer system and "zone" testing down the length of the shaft so I can compare various shafts.
I wouldn't waste time and money using lasers any more since they don't help the final product. Your eyes (and a good pair of glasses) get the job done.

I like to use my FLO weight with the laser instead of the club head. For one thing, the FLO weight has a set screw so I can tighten it on the shaft, without messing around with getting a tight fit inside the hosel. Second, with a pattern grid on the wall, I can flex the shaft perfectly level to the ground, and that makes it easier to get the FLO in exactly the right location for installation in the head. Granted, you can do it with the club head, I find it much easier, faster, and more precise with the FLO weight and laser.

OnePutt-
the reason I use the club head is that I have found that the FLO pattern changes when the head is on the shaft versus the FLO weight since the FLO weight is centered around the shaft and the head offsets the weight from the center of the shaft thereby changing the FLO .

In my testing I haven't seen where the FLO changes with the head on the shaft compared to the flo weight, That's also what I've read many times from other club makers. I've also done a FLO test on my finished clubs with the head on of course, and I get the same straight line pattern I did with the FLO weight. Not saying you are wrong, only what my testing has shown me.

hi all
been looking for plans for spine finder but cant fine help

cy9mm; I make both a spine finder and a FLO weight with Laser pointer. Be happy to build you what you need. Spine finder is $40, FLO weight/Laser is $30. Shipping is $8. If you are interested send me a PM and with your email address and I will send you my address and send a photo of the FLO weight/laser if you want to see what it looks like.

FLO will not change based on the orientation of the head. I agree with Oneputt here, you just need your standard weight and a laser. Lasers are cheap, well worth the $6. FLO, however, can change when you trim a shaft. Obviously, you'll want the clubhead on there to freq. match, it is decidely easier to do this by having your flo mark already on the shaft.

A Good Walk, I agree, the FLO can change when the shaft is trimmed to length. This is why I FLO a shaft with about 3-1/2 inches of the butt hanging out past the clamp blocks in the vise. This means the end I'm going to butt trim isn't involved in the FLO alignment. Other option is to cut the shaft to length before you FLO.