Thank you for the answer. I was just wondering because the driver I got, the graphics are in weird position. You seem very informed on most posts, tell me do they have to be set in a neutral position? I have read that the shafts can be spined with a draw or fade bias. Can that really make a difference?
again, thank you.
Spineing has been referred to as "one of the best kept secrets of the industry". Spineing was legalized by the USGA a few years ago, thus the appearance of the Purring process. Same as spineing but it is done with a frequency monitor and a computer. When spineing a shaft, there are two points of interest, the spine itself which we call S1, and the neutral side which is referred too as N1. Pros and better ball strikers prefer the S1 side to point down range, this helps to increase workability, i.e.fade and draw. This side down range also makes the shaft play a bit stiffer. The neutral side, or N1, is placed down range for most average ball strikers. The benefit of having the N1 side down range is this is the side of the shaft that snaps back to it's original position when loaded. This helps promote a straighter shot, but the shaft will play with slightly less stiffness. I would not attempt to orient the spine in a clubhead to promote just a draw or just a fade. What most golfers don't realize is the shaft flexes in two directions during the down swing. The one direction we all know, the other is that it flexes towards the ground as well. This is caused by gravity and acceleration. If the N1 side is facing down, towards the ground, it could cause a toe down position of the club, facing up it could result in a toe up condition. The idea in all clubs, and this is why we talk about lie angles, is to have them set up to deliver the clubhead square to the ball and square to the ground. I hope I haven't confused everyone, lol. Having said this, my clubs are spined, all of them, and the N1 side is down range.
I spoke with the guy that pured my shafts. He said essentially exactly what Forged said, with the exception being that he said that the majority of the pros also have their clubs set up N1 downrange. S1 might increase workability, but apparently it makes it easy to really "overdo" it, and super hook or slice shots.
I spoke with the guy that pured my shafts. He said essentially exactly what Forged said, with the exception being that he said that the majority of the pros also have their clubs set up N1 downrange. S1 might increase workability, but apparently it makes it easy to really "overdo" it, and super hook or slice shots.
Hey! I didn't know that. See you can still teach an old dog new tricks.
You can buy a good spineing tool on ebay for $50. Or you can make one from PVC pipe, about 6 inches of 1 1/2 in. will do. Three ball bearings, two for inside the pipe and one for the shaft tip.
Place spineing tool in a vice, slip the butt end of the shaft into the tool, slide the third ball bearing over the tip. Bend the shaft with the tip bearing, and rotate while bending. You will feel the stiff side as it comes to the top. This is the S1 side, N1 is 180 degrees opposite. Also, if you let go of the shaft while it is still being bent, it will snap back to the N1 side. Mark both the N1 and S1 sides.