As I've mentioned before, my current set of irons is a mis-matched, freebie set that was given to me by a friend. They play ok, but need new shafts & grips. Here's my question...could I buy new shafts & grips and restore them for the cost of a set of component or clone clubs?
The clubs I'm looking into start at around $140 or so:
TechPower TP-600
Here are pictures of my irons:
Haig Ultra (3, 5, 6, 9)
Spalding Top-Flite Legacy (4, 8)
Spalding Qualifier Series Tee Flite (7), Northwestern Shot Saver (PW)
Has anyone reshafted their irons before? The heads on my existing irons are pretty marked up, but they play well. I know it would be the best to throw 100's of dollars into a new set, but that's not an option for me. Your input is appreciated!
Last edited by Buckshot : August 18th, 2005 at 12:18 PM.
Those techpowers are nice clubs, component clubs would certainly be the way to go to keep the cost down. If I were you, I would buy new and then refinish those eventually, you will actually pay more to have them redone than for a new set of component irons.
I have a set of Dynacraft progressives that are brand new, unshafted so I can put them together for whatever specs you need. They are cavity back in the longer irons and make their way into a MB for the scoring irons (8-PW I believe) I can set you up with 3-PW plus a nice Infiniti GW and 2 golf Smith pro grind wedges (SW and LW) pretty cheap. LMK
You really need a complete fitted set with matched shafts to make the most of your game. Keep the old one to play with ocassionaly and get a new matched set. By the way, regripping and reshafting the clubs with TT gold, for example with cost you $10-15/club just for the shaft and grip. Rechroming heads run $25-35 each.
Those Haigs would be great for a restore project! I have restored many sets of old irons. Rechroming runs between $17- $23 per clubhead, depending on where you send them. I use Golfworks and The Iron Factory for rechroming work. Here is a tip if you plan to restore and play these clubs. Get professionally fitted first. With the old shafts still in the clubs have them adjusted for your new lie spec before you send them in to be rechromed. Also, as old as those clubs may be, you will want to get a .355 taper tip reamer. Some of the older clubs used a .345 taper tip shaft, so the reamer will open the hosel up to the new standard. Another issue you will encounter is swingweight, the older shafts are heavier then most the new shafts, so during assembly you will want to add some lead in the tip of the shaft. No ugly lead tape this way. Hope you decide on the restore route, it is lots of fun.