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I'm going to pick up a V-Steel fairway wood tomorrow and I need to know what loft would be best. I plan on using it for long shots on par 5's. I'll probably never use it off the tee.
I'll be using it for shots over 220 yds from both the fairway and bad lies.

15 for a 3 wood, 17 for a 4 wood, and 19 for a 5 wood.

thanks. Is there a standard shaft or am I gonna have a **** of shafts to wade thru?

both, you can get teh standard shaft in graphite or steel or upgrade to a different shaft, go to a place that has a launch moniter and get the shaft that fits you best.

If you have a fairly high swing speed i highly recommend steel shafts. The reason is that you are not only looking for distance, there are lots of times when you will want to use it off the tee as a safer and more accurate alternative to the driver. Steel will help to keep you in the fairway and if you get the correct flex you shouldn't give up more than 5-10 yards.

15* 3 wood is very versital and in the V-steel it is a very nice club.

TM makes a Tour Spoon/ Strong 3 (13*) and a standard 3 (15*). I would only opt for the 13* if you are a low handicap with a higher swing speed (100MPH+). 13* is hard to get into the air off the deck for swing speeds any slower. I own 2 of the 15* and am very happy with them.

The standard MAS graphite shafts play VERY stiff. I own 2 stiff shafts and both freq tested right at the X level. The price of these clubs have come down tremendously and you can find them reshafted with Aldila or ProLaunch shafts on EBAYfor around $100. If you have a slower (less than 100MPH) swing speed, I would stay away from steel shafts on driver/FW. Steel increases overall clubweight which slows your swing speed down meaning less distance.You also can manipulate the tip on graphite to give you a lower/medium/higher ballflight.

These clubfaces are very hot. Drawbacks are that most people feel the stock shafts are junk. Also, the paint around the face has the tendency to chip off (this doesnt affect playability). The face is somewhat shallow and can take a little getting used to if you are accustomed to larger faced 3s.

Hope this helps a bit:)

TaylorMade's 5 woods are typically 18*, I think. I can't remember exactly on the V-steel, but the old SuperSteel was 18*, and the r5 I play now is 18*.

Yup, same with the r7 ti.

I hit my Ft-3 fusion driver 280-300+, so I need a club that'll hit 220+ for a few Par 5 holes. I hit my 10* driver almost too high so I'm not sure if I'll need a 15* or not.
Will using the Simulator at Golf Galaxy help in choosing the right loft and shaft or is it just a selling tool?

I found my V-steel II has a very high trajectory compared to my dads G5 which has a more powerful ball flight where as the TM seems to drop and stop.

I always assumed a 5 wood was 21 degrees...? Though what you say seems to make a lot of sense to me, as I've got a 21 degree fairway of indeterminably value & it doesn't seem to go anywhere near as far as I'd like for a 5 which I was told it was eqivelent to..

The 13* V-steel really isnt that hard to hit, if you can hit a 15* consistently then you can hit the 13* with just as much ease, I dont think the length difference between the two is much like 1/4" or 1/2"

I have the 13* now and its great because I dont lose much distance off the tee if I take that instead of driver, i can hit that 3 wood like 260(off the tee), 235 or 240 off the deck and i've put it out there 280(off the tee) so it can be an asset to your bag if you feel you need it...

I found a TM VSteel 3 wood(15*) at Dick's for $79 new and snapped it up today. I hit it into my practice net and love it. I can definitely see where this may come in handy on holes that I really don't need a driver. I'll be trying it out on the range/course this Wednesday.

Good luck to ya

Zach