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I've always known that the quality control on graphite shafts was somewhat less than acceptable, but I didn't realize had bad it is.

I'm a club builder but had moved recently and most of my equipment is packed up so I made a trip to a another pro/builder I know to have a swing analysis done. The most difficult thing I've found is fitting myself. It's really hard to be objective, plus I can't watch myself.
I've been having some problems with my Ping G5/Grafalloy ProLaunch Blue
65S. Hooks galore and skying the ball. I sent it back to Ping and the returned it saying everything was fine and to spec. (I'd sure like to know what their specs are)

Anyway I had already pulled the shaft out of my G5 and took it with me with the intention of having it "pured" in case that was the problem. Dave decided to check the frequency of my shaft because he's been seeing a rash of incorrect frequencies on all flexes. He also said that every manufacturer measures frequencies differently. (good way to "cover your behind")
That's quite convenient isn't it. That basically says that whatever they place in their clubs is the correct flex even if it isn't.
Case and point:
The high-limit frequency for a stiff shaft is about 258. The ProLaunch Blue 65S that came out of my Ping measured 276 consistently. I believe that's slightly beyond "Extra Stiff". He had a regular in the same shaft he pulled from another G5 that measured 269.
Suggestion: Whenever you purchase a name brand driver, if the shop you're buying from can't check the frequency, don't buy it.
The shop I went to today checks each and every name brand club they sell. The frequency it and "pure" it at no charge to customer. If the frequency is incorrect, they reshaft it.

I have built dozens and dozens of graphite flyrods over the last 30 years, and since fishing rod blanks are built the same way as graphite golf shafts, I can understand the problems of consistancy. The graphite material comes in wide sheets, and is rolled onto a stainless steel mandrel. Since they have to cut the material, one side of the blank will always have one more wrap than the other side, thus it will exhibit a "spine" when bent. The consistant quality of the blanks depends on the quality of the raw material, the type of scrim that holds it together, the amount of resin in the material, the care with which they are wrapped on the mandrel, and the pressure/temperature under which they are cured. Steel, on the other hand, can be rolled or extruded to super exacting tolerances, which will make a more consistant product with equal wall thickness and density over the entire shaft. I guess it all comes down to getting whatever quality you pay for. But I think steel shafts are much more predictable than even high end graphite....you just have to have the shafts measured by a pro club builder with the proper equipment.

Wow i bet you're glad you got that checked out! Thats a big difference in flex and would have a major affect on your gameplay. I wonder if its just Ping or other big names as well? Thanks for the advice Pepto.

It seems to be true with everyone. This is an extreme difference in flex and probably not the norm, but since graphite shaft manufacturing is what it is, this is possible with any factory made club. You need to realize that the manufacturer may spot check a few shafts at best in each load which leads to a lot of quality problems.
This is why I say you need to have a club frequency anaylized before purchasing it. Thank the Lord for club fitters. They build their clubs one at a time.