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Does anyone have anything to say about the Royal Precision Project X Shafts?

yes, i have them in my 690cb and love them, very rarely do you get a stinger on a off hit and and not enough to hurt. produces a medium ball flight and does not glare in the sun. shafts are 6.5 stiffness (almost extra stiff) and still very good distance. like any shaft, get it spine aligned. hope this helps.

What is spine aligned?

i'll try my best to explain. spine aligning a shaft is taking a bare shaft(no head or grip) and putting the butt end into a tool that basically consist of a pipe and two roller bearings inserted into it on each end and with a third bearing, pulling down on the shaft in which the shaft will rotate to its neutral position. this is the position of which the shaft will want to bend too when flexed while you swing the golf club also. the spine(s) on the shaft are usually 90 degrees of the neutral position. graphite shafts can have one, two and occasionally three spines with generally one of the being a dominate spine. steel shafts have only one. when turning the shaft in the tool, you can actually feel the spine (feels like a hard spot on shaft) and then will rotate back to the neutral bend point which you then mark and install in the head with the mark facing toward the target. every shaft is different while some have could two spines that feel the same, others can have one very dominate and the other is barely noticable. a crafty person can set up the club by positioning the spine in a position to help the head close off (draw bias) or stay open(fade bias) because the shaft will tend to turn away from the dominate spine. shafts installed at the factory are not aligned so you never know what you might get (like a box of chocolates, lol) and i actually had a titleist 980f that i could'nt stop drawing and the spine was at an angle so that the face close off at impact. if you are a do-it-your-selfer, jb's spine tool on ebay is the best, or you can send it into golfsmith to have it sst pured (basically the same thing but on a high tec machine that spins the shaft) or call a custom golf shop in your area. hope this helps.

What can i expect if i switch from regular dynamic golds to these?

you will get close to the same performance. ball flight is slightly higher with these shafts and are slightly stiffer but overall distance and accurracy wise, it will be the same. in the end, it still comes down to the dude swinging the club (tiger quote).

The biggest difference i have noticed since switching to these shafts, is the feel. I supposed that is a matter of opninion, but i prefer the feel of Rifle over DG, it seems more solid when i catch it right.

your absolutley correct, they have a very good feel to them along with good looks.

I don't mind the PX shaft, but I am definately going back to X100, that is for **** sure. The feel on the hit is a bit heavy, and isn't as soft as a DG, IMO. The ball balloons a bit too much for me. I fell into the PX hype and had my new TP MBs shafted with them which was a mistake. I also notice that when the shafts get old, they start looking like aluminum bats you find at the cages. My buddy had them for 2 years now and they look like poop.

just had them installed in my Titleist 735.CM's a week ago. amazing change from my old DG S-300s. i decided to go with a stiffer shaft when switching to the project x. hit a 6.0 which is slightly stiffer than the DG S-300, still wanted something a little stiffer so i went with the 6.5. at first i regretted going stiffer, they felt like telephone poles at first... i had to change my swing a little but because i tend to sweep the ball instead of hit down on it, which the project x's demand you to do. after a few range sessions all i can say is WOW. nice high, penetrating ball flight. i'm hitting the ball a little further now due to the stronger ball flight. i used to be able to get my 8i out to the 170 range, i'm now able to hit it over 180 with consistancy. i've never been one to get the most out of my 3i, on a good day with my DG-S300s i'd hit it 210. now since changing shafts i'm more consistantly finding myself hitting it between 220-235. but i've noticed the biggest difference with my wedges, deadly accurate. as with all other golf gear, please be sure to demo before you buy, what might work for someone elso might not exactally work for you.

Thats a long 8 iron! I hit the ball pretty hard and best I can get out of the 8 iron is 150 to 160 (my drives are at 300+ on regular basis and my 3 iron is 210-220).

Question for you as you tried these out. Have you ever played X100s? Curious the difference between that and the 6.5s. I want something that is similar to the S 400s.

I am certain I will be switching to the Rifles Project X on my next set based on looks alone. I am actually for the first time going to be custom fitted for clubs and excited to see the results. I played S400s for a long time and now have X100s. The X100s are great when you hit them right, but my belief is if you aren't matching the swing speed to the shaft I will instantly lose 10-15 yards which causes too much variation for me.

i have been developing a nasty case of golfer's elbow (actually more like tennis and golfer's elbow together) and it was since i bought my Titleist 735cm with S300 shafts.the pain got so bad, and i got so scared that i went out and bought a set of Mizuno MP 57s..with regular shafts (always steel) and the pain subsidied by about 50%. whilst i loved the 735 blades and had no problem hitting them at all, i had to sacrifice them in order to keep playing. having read the shaft comments now i could have had the option to change to regular shafts maybe....any comments or experience with golfer's elbow and clubs?