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For the last couple rounds I've been having a major fade problem on all my balls with all my clubs except my 3 wood.

Finally today, nothing went right (haha the irony in that statement). Once again, nothing went correctly at the range (except 3 wood).

My balls, on all clubs cept 1, are taking off straight, but then when they get to about 125-150, they just drop off the table and fade to the right...by about 25-30 yards...it is BAD. I was in the middle of the range, and was hitting the side net every single time. My driver is the worst. I will blast it, make solid solid contact (according the the 'wife') and it will take off straight as an arrow and then it's like a huge gust of wind pushes it completely off course....EVERYTIME.

I have a feeling I'm coming outside/in...but even when she says I don't and hit it correctly, it still has a serious fade to it. Mind you I've never had this problem before until this week.

Can anyone help? Anyone got any ideas they can think of? We shot some video and I'm looking through it now to see if there is anything I can post for ya'll to look at and gauge (though you can't see that my ball is fading away major).

Thanks for any and all help!

*edit
here's the only video that actually came out decent. 7 iron, aiming for the flag that you cant see and it's behind my body and the ball hit's the side net to the right of me.
Video of fade1 - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

to me it looks like your bringing it inside too far on the backswing, therefore causing you to go over the top. So with that said, your imparting slice spin on the ball. Also, you may be aiming too far right, be aware of that next time you practice.

By the way, are you at the Hyde mountain driving range in B.C.?

Thanks! I will deff. look into that tomorrow during practice.

No, that's at a course here in WA.

Keep them tips comin. Will look into them all!

Maybe its just me and I'm not good LOL.

Taking it away too low and behind on the take away causing you to loop into an over the top move and cutting across the ball. You are also bent over an awful lot at the waist and this may make you feel like you are bringing the club up and around but instead it is keeping the backswing way too flat then you are lifting up and swing over and around. You should be positioned so that your arms can hang down naturally to the ground and then grab the grip and take your stance instead of feeling you are bending over and reaching. You would like to feel the club is moved back in the backswing by the shoulder turn and the arms and hands just stay with the shoulder movement. Some may start with the feel that the hands pull the club back or the arms but the main thing is they all need to stay connected to the torso turning to maximize control and power. I'm not an instructor but this is my view of it.

Balance is better but still falling forward a little, imo. Club is across the line at the top (aiming where your ball ends up). And you're definitely swinging over the top, causing the left to right spin. Golf is hard. Try staying back on your haunches a little and feel you're weight in the hamstrings and don't lunge after the ball...imagine keeping the weight over the middles of your feet and not so much on the balls of the feet. You're getting more stable but you're not there just yet. Keep taking the club away inside but maybe not so much...you want the shaft to point downrange at the target at the top of the backswing...let your shoulders pivot around the spine and think about the shoulders lining up downrange at the target at the point of impact. Lastly, I'd bet that you are attempting to hit the ball square in the rear...try to contact it inside (your side) of the target line and release...go ahead and try this at the range and don't be skeered...you won't hit it any further right than you already are.

Shade

Good Coralpro, right on! I am a teaching Pro. so lets see if I can expand a bit.
The too much inside backswing is the major problem. it's your idea of the route of it. To get the correct feel, once you are set up have someone place a club just to the right of your right foot. The handle and club should be in line with both feet. When you take the club back the shaft of it should match the one on the ground and the blade should be pointing straight up in the air. If it is pointing to the ground, your face is closed, if it is pointing to the sky, it is open. Straight up is square. It will seem that you are taking the club outside, because you have been so much inside. keep practicing the matching shaft backswing. In your video (near the halfway back, the matching shaft position) it looks like the handle of your club is pointing to the left of target, and that will cause an outside in downswing. If the handle point to the right at the matching shaft point, a inside to out downswing will resluts. Match the shaft/face straight up. Once you have that worked out, all you have to do from that point is to point your thumbs, (with the club) straight up and continue to the top. You now will have a more upright and correct backswing and a more down the line swing. The cocking the wrist/thumbs up move, keeps you from getting trapped behind which is causing you to use your shoulders in a over-the-top move. Remember, the left shoulder in a good swing, is still pointing slightly to the right of target, just before impact! Anytime a ball cruves right, it alway means that the blade is open the the path the clubhead is traveling. Anytime a ball start out left of the target, the swingpath in outside to in. Anytime a ball starts out right of the targetline, the swingpath is inside to out. Anytime a ball cruves left, the blade is close to the path the clubhead is traveling. From there you should now know what causes a ball to go and act the way it goes. Please email me back to let me know how it all works out. Good luck!

Thanks shade, coral and Brex. Will deff be taking the advice.

Thanks Brex 1010! Bits and pieces of knowledge I try to soak in from my local teacher I used, info from other pros like Roger Gunn, and a few years of trying to develop a repeatable swing that can be considered to finally be the end to a work in progress.

After contact...........FINISH, back of left hand facing down after your release. You may be pointing the back of your left hand upwards, (Toward the Sky), resulting in an open clubface and a fade or worse slice!

Every slice, fade, hook or draw starts in a straight lline (though the line may be off target)! It takes a while for the sidespin to impart a lateral velocity component on the ball while it is churning through the air, and for the sidespin to become noticable in the ball's trajectory. That doesn't mean the sidespin wasn't there immediately after impact.

Everyone here is to helpful! This is all great. Thanks!

We hopefully cured my driver today (as far as the nasty fade/slice) and it was my shaft. I took hits with a stiff shaft and all were straight unless I ed up the shot.

The guy said, with regarding to a regular flex, that with slower swing speeds the ball will tend to go left....with a faster swing speed it will slice right. So it looks like I'll be picking up a new fujikura (or however its spealt) stiff flex for $50 bucks installed (gotta love my woman being who she is, get some killer discounts lol). But what's weird is, the hybrid I hit has a stiff shaft and I have the same problem, but maybe some of these tips will help. Gonna play 9 holes tomorrow so we'll see!

Irons got better today, but a new problem that occured is I'll make solic contact and it won't slice, but it will go straight as an arrow....but 15 yards LEFT of my intended target...not hooking, I just hit it straight, just to far left.

I don't go for the shaft is the problem but if it has helped you then great. I have reg, stiff, and x-stiff tour spec shafts in four different drivers and I can hook, draw, straight, fade, and slice any of them with the right or wrong swing. I will agree that if a person has a consistant ball flight most all the time that heads or shafts can be swapped to get the desired flight. Most of us are never that consistant that the swing and release looks the same 5 out of 10 times. The stiffer the shaft, in general, will reduce distance somewhat but give you better control of dispersion. Shafts can be bought that help correct slicing or hooking but they don't repair faults. To give you an example my tour spec shaft is in an R7 quad ht and I have it set for max draw and use it for tighter holes or courses and the other day on number 1 hole which rates the most difficult on the course I planned to play a draw aiming right center and didn't get my hips turned my hips open too quick and left the face open slightly at impact and the ball had a power fade that went into a large cedar on the right edge of the rough about 5 yds off the fairway. Death city and had to take an unplayable. The 3 wood because of the smaller head will tend to play a bit stiffer for control and if you are slicing it then the problem is not fixed. When you can hit it straight or a slight draw then you are on the right road. Again you can take this with a grain of salt but I love my food salty.