to have some proof it said it on the golf channel to.
on " the turn "
The USGA's ball testing confirms this too, at least in part. One model of the V1x rated at Low/Medium while all of the V1 models are Medium/High. The first is the spin off the driver, the second is the spin from a short iron. several of th V1x versions had the same rating as the V1, but I'm not sufficiently conversant with the markings to know which is the most current version. Anyone who is interested can look it up on the conforming ball list at usga.org. They only rate at Low, Medium, and High, no actual numbers.
Recently treated myself to an NV Drew 50' (gap wedge), which have additional mini groves milled into the face & found it works very well for all shots around the green. So when my vokey 60' wedge gets completely worn out the NV Drew 60' (lob wedge) will get into my bag as well.
MD really seem to be producing some good specialist clubs recently to be sold alongside their normal everyday budget clubs. Their new range of NV Drew putters are excellent too. Not too disimilar to the retro putters Titleist came out with not long back. Though & infact the MD versions are actually a better range of styles, especially for the money.
I think we have a definition problem here. A chip shot is:
A shot typically played from very close to the green, usually within a yard or two of the putting surface, in which the ball is struck using a club played back in the player's stance. It produces a low trajectory shot that is in the air very briefly before settling to the edge of the putting surface and rolling toward the cup like a putt. Chip shots are usually played with a 6-, 7-, 8- or 9-iron or pitching wedge.
Chip shots differ from pitch shots in that pitch shots are meant to have a higher trajectory with backspin, some distance away from the green that results in a shot landing closer to the pin, rolling very little, and played with lofted wedges.
I've got to agree with derekbc on this one. Why doesn't everybody who plays enough to call themselves a golfer know the difference between a chip (generally hit in air only far enough to comfortably get on the green and roll the rest of way to the hole), a pitch shot (generally travels almost all the way to the hole and has minimal roll), and a pitch and run (roll somewhere in between a chip and a pitch)
The only time I want a chip shot to bite is when I just bladed one and it's rocketing over the green
I've got to agree with derekbc on this one. Why doesn't everybody who plays enough to call themselves a golfer know the difference between a chip (generally hit in air only far enough to comfortably get on the green and roll the rest of way to the hole), a pitch shot (generally travels almost all the way to the hole and has minimal roll), and a pitch and run (roll somewhere in between a chip and a pitch)
The only time I want a chip shot to bite is when I just bladed one and it's rocketing over the green
Most likely because I rarely see anyone playing a proper chip from the fringe...seems that it will either be putter (nothing wrong with that) or a lofted wedge that flies the 5 yards to the hole then rolls 15 feet past...neither a pitch or a chip, just a bad decision....
Most likely because I rarely see anyone playing a proper chip from the fringe...seems that it will either be putter (nothing wrong with that) or a lofted wedge that flies the 5 yards to the hole then rolls 15 feet past...neither a pitch or a chip, just a bad decision....
In his short game book, Tom Watson recommends only using a lot of spin when you really need to. His reasoning is that spin can be very hard to control, especially for the less consistent player. He does also say that some pros are very good at it and they do well playing those shots.
For chips, getting a lot or a little spin isn't important to me. All I care about is that it is relatively consistent. If I hit 3 chips in a row from the same spot, and land them on the same spot, I want them to end up pretty close to the same spot. If I want more or less roll, I use a less or more lofted club. If I need the ball to stop quick (say a downhill shot, with only 15 ft of green to the pin), I play a lofted club and pitch it from the center of my stance. A chip shot usually isn't even an option I consider if I need the ball to stop quickly.
I see a lot of pros play the spinny chip that bounces 2 or 3 times and sits, but I see the same pros let it run, and see more shots that run than the chips that sit. I think when a pro plays the 'sitting' chip, they have a good reason. I would suggest mastering a normal, running chip before getting fancy, and for most shots, you just don't need the ball to check up on a chip.
or a lofted wedge that flies the 5 yards to the hole then rolls 15 feet past...neither a pitch or a chip, just a bad decision....
, is simply because when novices & even some experienced amateurs play a chip shot Setting it back in your stance, is all they see is the pin, we've all been there & we've all done it so there is no use deniying it. We need to learn how to pick the landing zone for a chip'n'run, it doesn't matter whether you've used a 4iron or a sand wedge, you need to work out where you want that ball to land knowing how its going to run out for the loft you have in your hands.. i.e the club. The idea of chipping is that you use all the effective green available, so unless you want to carry a ball over a particular break or hollow on a green its a case of choosing that club which gets your ball from where it is off the green to land on the green & then run the rest of the way to the pin.
Anything else where you are coming in from a great height & the club more central in your stance is a pitch, lob or a parachute shot, where the ball wants to eather run out a little back up a bit or land softly in that order. They are not chipping
As I said earlier in the thread If you want to ask how do you get backspin on pitch shots that fine, but if you are talking chipping its pick yourlanding zone take the shot, watch it run out to the hole.
Enough with the short cynical quips...what is the question here? I'm better now playing lower lofts off the green on a consistent basis...before I would go in cycles, having good weeks and bad weeks with the 52* from around the greens...an 8 or 9 iron seems to make more sense, is plain easier to control, and more forgiving on poor chips that are victims of either poor ballstriking, a little fat or thin, decelleration or all of the above...